Australian scientists have developed a new technology capable of producing thinner and lighter wool. Dr David Phillips and his team at the CSIRO’s Textile & Fibre Technology Division, have created a new wool fibre called Optim which has more in common with silk than wool. It is up to 50 per cent lighter than wool and lacks its frizziness.

“Optim is arguably the most significant breakthrough in wool technology since the development of shrink-resistant technology in the 1960s,” said Dr Phillips.

CSIRO devised the 17-metre Optim wool fibre processing machine that modifies the molecular structure of wool by controlled stretching using a chemical, heat and mechanical process. The machine won this year's Australian Design Award.

Dr Phillips says the process has a lot in common with curling human hair. “Hair has a similar chemical and physical structure to wool,” he said. “To curl it, it’s wrapped around a spindle, heated and chemically set.

“The Optim machine works in the same way. But instead of curling the fibre around a spindle, we extend it and set it. The moisture, heat and chemicals used cause the bonds inside the fibre to rearrange themselves. We then have to stabalise these so they don’t spring back.”

By varying the processing, the researchers have been able to develop two new fibres: Optim Fine, a silk fibre, and Optim Max, designed to develop volume and bulk in wool yarns.

The first commercial Optim machine was unveiled at a textile machinery exhibition held in Singapore last year.

Three commercial Optim machines are now operating: two in China, and one in Melbourne. The latter is jointly owned by two Japanese companies.

Japan was the first country to being experimenting with the silky fibre, which is ideal for summer suits made from wool. "The Japanese were very interested," said Dr Phillips. "They need lightweight suits for this time of year because of the heat and humidity."

In a small concession to the Australian wool industry, the developers were able to set up exclusive deals for the Optim machine so that only Australian wool is used in the process.

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